This is a hobby website dedicated to the Kawasaki KLR650 motorcycle. I make no claim concerning the accuracy of the procedures, nor do I guarantee the success of any work done using them. All users of the material found here are advised that there is no real or implied warranty associated in any way with the website content, and that all content available here is for use at your own risk.
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This is a completely upgraded SuperBrace. For improved tracking and stability, check it out!
This installation was about the easiest of anything that I've done with my KLR, and yet pays off big. I've found greater stability and better tracking riding fast twisties on rough pavement or washboard dirt roads. This new SuperBrace is great!
NOTE: you may see signs of the lift that I used for this procedure. I used the lift only to help get better pictures, which is enough of a challenge for me without also having the bike leaned over.
What you get, shown below:
- Put your KLR on the sidestand, center stand or lift. It doesn't really matter, but you are going to have to remove the front axle nut, so it will have to be stable.
- Push the rubber fork boots up and out of the way. I used string, as shown below, to KEEP them out of the way.
- The SuperBrace comes loosely assembled. Remove the four bolts to prepare for mounting. 5mm Allen Head
- Loosen the front axle nut, and tap the bolt end just a bit to be sure that the fork tubes have been freed up. 22mm nut - 17mm for bolt head.
I've been using "hairpins" for a while now to save the hassle of unbending cotter pins and getting them straight enough to get back out through the hole. As an added safety measure, I use a couple zip-ties to secure them, as shown below. They're readily available pretty much anywhere, such as Home Depot.
Note the machined area of the brace half, shown below and indicated with the yellow line. The brace is shown upside down; that area will be facing down when installed, and sitting on top of the fork tube.
Below is a picture of the brace half in place on the fork tube. Note the perfect machining, indicated by the yellow lines and arrow - it doesn't get any better than that!
- Put the two SuperBrace halves in place on the fork tubes. Note: the brace half with "SUPERBRACE" on it will be in front, with the text facing forward. Installing correctly will put the bolts at the more protected rear where oncoming dirt, mud and bugs won't clog the bolt heads and will prevent driven water from entering.
- Torque the bolts to recommended spec: 10 ftlbs <=> 120inlbs <=> 13.5Nm
I always suggest the use of Loctite or similar product. Thumpers vibrate, and vibration loosens stuff. Also, I tightened the bolts a small amount at a time, equally. Outside bolts first, then the inside; back to outside and so on. Make one last pass over all the bolts to be sure that they're all at the specified torque.
- Remove the string if you used any and push the boots into place.
You may have noticed in the picture above that there is a locking lip at the top of the brace "sleeve." Yet another well thought out design feature, this will keep your boots firmly in place. If you're using aftermarket boots with smooth bottoms, this lip will ensure that your zip-tie is able to securely keep your boots where they belong.
Important: You're also checking for clearance between the brace and your brake / speedometer lines, which the picture below also shows. Be sure that your lines don't rub! If they do, relocate them.
Along the same line of thinking, be sure that you have adaquate clearance between the brace and tire. You could move a house though the space that I have, but more aggressive offroad tires would probably be a closer fit. 3/8" of clearance is recommended.
- Retorque the axle nut to spec, which for my 2001 KLR is 58 FtLbs <=> 78.6Nm
- Reinstall the cotter pin, hairpin
- Bounce test the bike, making sure that all is free and clear, that nothing rubs.
CLEARANCE: At the time of installation, with the amount of wear that I have on my Metzler Tourance, there is 9/16" of clearance between the tire and brace. It should be noted that tire type and condition will determine the clearance for each individual installation.